Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Food Safari - Buttering lessons in Davanagere!

It is a known fact that Indians are fond of eating and India is a gourmet's paradise. The interesting aspect of Indian culinary diversity is the cuisine changes every 100 Kms or sometimes even every 50 Kms. Another curious aspect of India is that many dishes are associated with the place they come from. Thus we have Mysore pak, Dharwad peda, Machilipattinam laddu, Tirunelvelli halwa, Chettinad Chicken, Lonavala chikki, Bikaneri Bhujia, Banarasi pan and so on.

To that you add "Davanagere Benne Dose (pronounced as "dhosay")" or " Davanagere Butter Dosa".

This is unique. This is not a typical Masala dosa or neither is it a plain dosa. It is a combination of two. Let us explain. 

We are sworn gourmets savouring local food wherever we travel. Davanagere in Central Karnataka in South India has been our breakfast pit stop for a long time whenever we drive on NH4. Our regular adda is Sri Guru Kottureshwara benne dose hotel opposite the dental college. It is easy to reach from highway. Plenty of parking and plenty to eat!

Davanagere Benne Dosa

You have only two items on the menu here. "Benne Dose" and "Khali Dose". Benne dose is slightly larger and has more butter than its smaller cousin and less buttered Khali dose! Our favourite has always been Benne Dose. A "Plate" of it means a pair. If you want only one, you have to order "Single".

These dosas are celebration of Benne or butter. This is the celebration of gluttony. Forget your dieting and indulge in the bliss of savouring crispy dosa with spicy "palya" and "chutney".

The benne dosa in Davangere is made on large "tavas" or "cooking plate" heated up by firewood. Yes, it is firewood which is still used in these places to cook dosa. The dosa batter is poured on the tava and then comes the fun. Dollops of butter is now thrown over it. Literally. The butter slowly melt merging into the batter. The batter now gets cooked. Crispy on one side and soft on the other side. It is now turned over and some more butter is thrown over it! Benne Dosa is ready now. Slightly thicker, crispy. The honey comb structure is visible when you open it. 

Davanagere Benne Dosa
When we clicked this, they were preparing Khali dosa. 
Davanagere Benne Dosa
Cooked over wood fire

Davanagere Benne Dosa
Hot Khali dosa with palya and chutney
Davanagere Benne Dosa
Ready to serve khali dosa
It is served with "Palya and Chutney". The palya is made of potato and onion mixed with ground green chillies. We are not sure of the recipe. It is not the same alu masala you find in Masala dosas served elsewhere. There is no seasoning for palya like in regular masala dosa. We think that boiled alu (potato) is mashed to which stir fried onion and grated chilli is added and mixed. The chutney is again simple. The chutney here is boiled, not fried with a tempering as is typical. It’s a simple mix of coconut, green chillies, salt, and just a pinch of cardamom.

When we went to Goa and Sirsi recently, we stopped over at this place for our breakfast. As usual we ordered a plate and the aroma lasted till we reached the destination!

Davanagere Benne Dosa
A plate of Davanagere Benne Dosa

We saw this nice video on Youtube which will show how the Benne Dose is prepared in Davangere style. Just notice the amount of Benne or butter that is thrown on the dosa! Looks like it is the same place. Not sure.

Davanagere Benne Dose

Next time when you are driving on NH 4, take time to stop over at Davanagere to indulge in Benne Dose. Make sure you don't land up between 1 PM and 4 PM when the hotel will be closed.

Here is the Google map link for the hotel.

http://goo.gl/maps/Ue3Bg

Glossary 

Dose/Dosa - An Indian pancake made of rice and Lentil
Palya - A spicy potato dish generally served as an accompaniment
Chutney - A gravy made of coconut and chilly ground into fine paste
NH - National Highway
Benne - Butter
Alu - Potato

If you are a foodie like us, you may love to see the following posts

Food streets of Indore

A Check list for gourmet's on travel in India

In search of Suleimani chai

Momos in Mirik

Bhopali breakfast

Bahadura laddu and ghevar of Gwalior

For other posts in "Food Safari" series please click here.

Food Safari

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